Here’s What You’ll Need:
Closure or Frontal or 360 Frontal
Lace Adhesive (Glue/Spray/Tape)
Rat Tail Comb
Edge Wrap or Elastic Edge Band
Hair Clips &T-Pins (optional)
Mixing Bowl &Applicator Brush
Powder Bleach &Developer #20
Alcohol Pad or A Cotton Ball &Rubbing Alcohol
Now that you have everything you need Let’s get started!
Prepare The Closure or Frontal.
Customize your hairline by plucking the hair along the hairline. Place a white towel (the white towel makes the hairline clearer for you to view) on your knee or mannequin head (if using a mannequin head use your t-pins to keep your frontal or closure in place). Then you’ll use your tweezers to pluck the hairline by pulling strands of hair from the lace. Start by making a thin part in the front of the lace; you will then begin to pluck the hair from the lace (not to much). Once you pluck your desired amount, you will then comb back the hair in the front and begin to pluck your desired hairline (shape &thickness). If your installing a wig do the same for the back (some may have a small amount of lace for the area along the nape of the neck) or all around for a 360 frontal. Optional create Baby Hairs by making a slim part along your hairline or in certain areas of your hairline. Pin back the rest of the hair and cut the hair about 2 to 3 inches long.
Bleach your knots (this step is optional; for those who want a natural look). You will start by pouring your powder bleach in a mixing bowl; then you’ll add the developer #20 (little at a time to build consistency) into the bowl; it should be a thick consistency something like toothpaste. Use your applicator brush to apply the bleach on the back of the lace.
Measure your frontal (closures/360 frontals do not need to be measured) it by aligning it across the front of your head from the top of your ear to the other. Take a white eyeliner pencil and mark off the extra lace that goes past the top of the ear to create your guideline for cutting later. For Wigs test the fit by placing the wig on your head and lining it up with your natural hairline. If the wig has tightening straps on the inside you may need to adjust them to make the wig tighter or looser to fit comfortable on your head.
Flatten your hair.
The flatter your hair is against your head, the better the wig will look.
Short hair: Braid your hair into 8 to 10 corn rows, 4 to 8 plaits, or mold it against your head using gel and bobby pins (if needed). Allow any gel or hair hold to fully dry before continuing.
Long hair: Put your hair into 10 to14 Corn Rows, 4 to 8 plaits, or place your hair in a low ponytail. Next, wrap the ponytail into a flat bun and secure it with bobby pins or pin or sew your hangtime (the end of your corn rows), or plaits to your head as flat as possible.
Put on a wig cap.
Stocking caps or wig caps, are soft caps made from stocking material that flattens and protects your hair.
Gently put the stocking cap on you head, making sure all of your hair is tucked in, even the hairs on the nape of the neck.
Optional: Use the "Bald Cap Method" to act as the barrier between your wig and natural hair. The cap itself will last about 1-2 weeks depending on the upkeep. Great for Glueless Wigs, Sew-ins, Wig Installs, and Quickweaves. This will take your install to another level. Giving scalp and melted lace. What the girls say, "What Lace?" Check out our blog, "How to: Bald Cap Method" to learn this amazing method!
Trim the lace.
Use a few clips to pull the hair away from your face or mannequin . Using your shears, trim the lace along your natural hairline (leave about 1/8 inch (3 mm) of lace).
Prepare your skin.
Dab some rubbing alcohol on cotton ball and wipe it along your hairline. This will remove the excess oils on your skin.
Apply Your Choice Of Adhesive.
Tape: Place six to ten small or medium pieces of wig tape along your hairline by pressing one of the sticky sides against your skin (make sure all of the pieces are touching to avoid any loose gaps in your hairline). Then remove the paper off the top of the tape.
Glue: Use an adhesive applicator to apply the glue in a thin line along your entire hairline (I personally like to apply mine in sections of three (right side, middle, and left side) and bond the lace with the glue with each section as I go rather than applying all the glue then placing the lace down and bonding them together all at once). Allow the glue to dry long enough to become clear and tacky before applying another coat of glue (2 to 4 coats recommended depending on how long you plan on wearing it).
Adhesive Spray: Apply your wig to your head (closure or frontal should already be sewed down along the back and or sides for a sew-in install). Clip any hairs back out the face besides any baby hairs you may have. Then spray the adhesive along the hair line slowly, neatly, and in sections. Be sure to wipe away any of the liquid if it begins to drip down your forehead to prevent it from getting in you eyes.
Bond The Lace And Adhesive.
Tape: Apply your wig (closure or frontal should already be sewed down along the back and or sides for a sew-in install) then bond them together by pressing the lace into the tape with your fingers firmly.
Glue: Once the glue is clear and tacky begin to apply your wig (closure or frontal should already be sewed down along the back and or sides for a sew-in install) then bond them together by using the tail end of your Rat Tail Comb to firmly press the lace into the glue.
Spray: Use the tail end of your comb to press the lace down onto your skin.
Pro Tip: Apply your Edge Wrap or Elastic Edge Band along your hairline and tie it down tight to further bond the two together (leave on for about 5 to 10 minutes or until you've finished styling your hair).
Remember it may not be perfect the first time but with practice you will get the hang of it.
Comment Below Any Questions You May Have Or Any Tips You Want To Share With Us : )